Straddling the Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks, the 33km Routeburn Track is more than a good little walk. It is one of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks, a title that is saved for the very best of hiking trails in our diverse landscapes. Through alpine meadows, mountain ranges, tarns and beech forest, the Routeburn packs a lot in to a relatively short space. Three days of pure joy, greenery and a rather cold lake plunge.
Day one from the Glenorchy end is a short three hour or so trek through beech forest, where a prime selection of native fauna are on display. Pīwakawaka, korimako, kākā and kārearea all made brief but beautiful appearances early in the walk. After a gradual climb up to Routeburn Falls hut, we were able to settle in for the night, thanks to a hearty risotto and some calm words about the etiquette of music in DoC huts.
The views are spectacular, the mountain tops jagged, and the tarns a superb inky-blue. The somewhat strenuous jaunt up to Conical Hill was well worth what our eyes were about to devour. The West Coast was clearly visible, as well as the Hollyford Valley and the Darran Mountains. We took note that this was going to be the best day in terms of landscapes, and you’d be filthy if Fiordland’s usual weather did its thing and deprived you of taking in the awesome vistas. En route to Lake Mackenzie, with a few kea chiming in and an icy lake ready for aching limbs to rest in. The DoC ranger talk turned into some bizarre one hour soliloquy and, while I’m a patient person, I decided 39 minutes was more than enough. The outside views were calling.
A final days’ mission through more beech forest, keeping dry around the stunning Earland falls and the former Howden Hut (RIP) lakeside were a tremendous way to ease into our saunter. A little side mission up to Key Summit, where we could spot the dramatic Lake Marian off in the distance. All downhill from here, boy. Three Great Walks down, seven more to enjoy.