The West Coast is a dramatic and diverse place, and one I have under-explored, sadly. The Paparoa Track is one of the 11 Aotearoa Great Walks, enough to field a cricket team. Does Paparoa make the team in a specialist position or is it more of an all-rounder? Moving through beech forest, alpine areas, along rivers, and showcasing some seriously impressive views reminds us of what our conservation estate has to offer. There is a reason people yearn to do these hikes. There is a reason you need to book in advance to ease your mind. Doing the hike in late autumn, though? The plus side is hut availability, booking with just two months in advance. The downsides are the days are short, cooler temperatures, and increased rainfall. Only one way to find out if we’ll stay dry or not.
Day One - Up and along
First day of a multi-day hike. After meticulously trimming weight to accommodate camera gear, we set off onto the 20km first day from the Blackball end of the track. It looked like we would be in for a bit of a climb. After a while, we wondered when the climb would start. After checking the map, we realised we had already completed a good chunk of it already! We made it to Ces Clark Hut for lunch. The wind had a chilly bite to it, but the sun was shining through. Visibility started to decrease and we spent about an hour surrounded by grey and no horizon. It lifted evnetually, showing us that this part of the country is a gem. After five hours of walking, we made it to Moonlight Tops Hut for the evening stay. The sinking sun lit up the escarpment. Stars took over above and the call of the kiwi rang true to finish off the day.
Day Two - Green hues, fine views
The morning sun greeted us with gentle warmth, with 19km of the trail ahead of us. Ivan and I both love Aotearoa beech forest, particularly in dappled light which we had for the first stretch. Along the top, we moved along the escarpment section which really is a phenomenal part of the New Zealand landscape, let alone what the West Coast has to offer. Many keen runners zipped past, making the most of the dry terrain. The track on this day was in superb condition and a lot of effort has gone into it to make it comfortable for hikers and suitable for mountain bikers. The distant ocean and green surroundings were present for large parts of the day, which we both rated as some of the best on our great walks.
Pororari Hut greeted us after a relatively easy 19km day. A golden sunset topped things off, before our somewhat disappointing dehydrated meals, several hands of P and A, and a roaring fireplace to keep us warm. No kiwi calls tonight, but an asteroid did light up the night sky which is hardly a consolation prize.
Day Three - Downhill dash to stay dry
After a decent sleep, we set off just after 8am to beat the afternoon rain that was forecast, expected to be intense that evening. It was a 16km day, and we moved through the downhill section with ease. Southern rātā were flowering (at this time of year? In this part of the country?). We had, however, missed the famous werewere-kōkako mushroom that others had spotted. Colourful mushrooms continued to pop up in tremendous tones; bright red, orange, yellow, purple, green, but the blues stayed hidden. I botched the photos on these, so we all miss out on seeing those in this piece.
The final hour or so is spectacular. Along a staircase that moves underneath some giant boulders, and impressive ferns frequently showing their grace, there really was a lot to take in. And that is before you hit the most impressive gorge section. With a few kilometres left, I kept my record intact of swimming on every great walk I have done. The water was fresh but far from numbingly cold. Thanks to Ivan for documenting that one. Shortly after, we bumped into my parents who had kindly made the trip down from Tasman to be our logistical legends. We finished the track just before midday, and found some seats at the local establishment. And then it started to rain, and rain a lot. The late-May gamble paid off handsomely! I’ll take whatever good luck I can get, especially when it comes to hiking and Tāwhirimātea.
